回收的悲剧在于它一次只能使用一种材料。在回收过程中引入的任何污染物都会立即破坏它，导致劣质产品的产生。塑料瓶在回收前需要彻底清洁，玻璃瓶在融化和重新利用之前需要把标签打磨掉，所以想想鞋子，一个单一的鞋子，由多个部分粘在一起形成一个有凝聚力的产品。众所周知，鞋子不仅难以回收，而且随着时间的推移，它们也会降解，因为eva泡沫塑料的微粒会在你走路时从鞋子上脱落，成为环境污染物。位于世界时尚之都巴黎的两兄弟，希望通过将可持续性纳入设计过程和商业模式，使鞋类更加环保。

The tragedy of recycling is that it only works with one material at a time. Any contaminants introduced in the recycling process can immediately corrupt it, resulting in inferior products. Plastic bottles need to be thoroughly cleaned before they’re recycled, glass bottles need to have their labels buffed off before they can be melted and repurposed, so think of the shoe, a single piece of footwear that has multiple parts glued together to form a cohesive product. Not only are shoes notoriously difficult to recycle, they actually degrade over time too, as microparticles of EVA-foam dislodge from your shoes as you walk, becoming environmental pollutants. Located in Paris, the fashion capital of the world, are two brothers looking to make footwear much more environmentally friendly by factoring sustainability tight into their design process and business model.

来认识一下HODEI(巴斯克语中的“云”)，这款鞋正在重新定义鞋子的制作、销售、磨损和回收方式。这款鞋更像是一个系统，而不是一个产品，这使得它在默认情况下更具可持续性……这一切都始于HODEI的商业模式。你看，对于HODEI，你通常不买鞋，你租鞋的同时还要付生态押金。鞋子只按订单生产，这意味着没有材料或库存浪费，而且设计的方式完全不使用胶水。当你用完你的HODEI鞋后，你可以免费退货(实际上是在鼓励你这么做)，公司会退还你的生态押金，要么以退款的形式退还，要么在下一双鞋时给你10欧元的折扣。HODEI团队有效地回收了鞋子的部件，使用二手鞋子作为新鞋的原材料，以确保原始材料不会不必要地进入生产周期。这种循环经济使HODEI能够严格控制其碳足迹，同时将可持续发展理念融入到公司理念中。作为消费者，你也有动机退货——不仅因为你相信该公司的价值观，还因为你最终会拿回你的押金。

Meet the HODEI (Basque for Cloud), a shoe that’s looking to redefine how shoes are made, sold, worn, and recycled. The shoe is looked at less like a product and more like a system, resulting in something that’s more sustainable by default… and it all starts with the HODEI’s business model. You see, with HODEI, you don’t traditionally buy the shoes, you lease them while also paying an Eco-Deposit on them. Shoes are only manufactured to order, which means there’s no material or inventory wastage, and are designed in a way that uses absolutely no glue. When you’re done with your HODEI footwear, you can return them for free (actually incentivizing you to) and the company gives you your Eco-Deposit back, either in the form of a refund, or a 10€ discount on your next pair. The HODEI team recycles the shoe’s parts effectively, using second-hand footwear as raw material for newer shoes to ensure virgin materials don’t unnecessarily enter into the production cycle. This circular economy allows HODEI to keep a tight check on its carbon footprint while actually baking sustainability right into its company ethos. You, as the consumer, also have the incentive to return the shoe – not just because you believe in the company’s values, but because you also end up getting your deposit back.

HODEI的实际设计加强了这种循环经济的鞋类方法，感觉有点像Crocs的精神(和时尚)继承者。HODEI的鞋子拥有由单一材料制成的整体设计。避免了需要单独生产多个部件，或胶水或缝在一起，HODEI的单件EVA泡沫结构对环境很好，因为它很容易回收，以及较少的损坏/破损。它不需要缝合或胶水，在你送回去的时候更容易回收。HODEI有两种变体——沉默的跑步者的核心,它包括底鞋可以穿一双不系鞋带的,沉默的跑步装备,其中还包括一个皮革护圈带,鞋带,让鞋子更少的鳄鱼和更多的运动鞋的吸引力。核心版和套件版的设计都是为了高效回收，并将生产、回收和回收的成本纳入其整体价格，而生态押金作为一种补充措施，以保持商业模式的成本效益和全球效益。此外，他们在做到这一切的同时也不牺牲风格。HODEI在他们的米白色的单片魅力看起来相当时髦。将它们与彩色皮革鞋垫和鞋带搭配，它们就会从非主流时尚变成复古时尚，同时强化了可持续性的信息，并为其他鞋业公司树立了正确的标准。

This circular-economy approach to footwear is reinforced by the HODEI’s actual design, which feels sort of like the spiritual (and fashion) successor to the Crocs. The HODEI footwear boasts a one-piece design that’s made from a single material. Circumventing the need to separately manufacture multiple parts and either glue or stitch them together, HODEI’s single-piece EVA Foam construction is good for the environment because it’s easy to recycle, as well as less prone to damage/breakage. It requires no stitching or glue, making it easier to recycle in the event that you send it back. The HODEI comes in two variants – the Silent Runner Core, which just comprises of the base footwear that can be worn like a pair of slip-ons, and the Silent Runner Kit, which also includes a leather retainer strap and laces, giving the shoes less of a Crocs and more of a sneakers appeal. Both the Core and Kit versions are designed to be recycled efficiently, and come with the cost of production, return, and recycling built into their overall price, with the Eco Deposit as an added measure to keep the business model cost-effective as well as planet-effective. Moreover, they do all this without sacrificing style. The HODEI look rather voguish in their off-white single-piece charm. Pair them with the colored leather retainers and the laces and they go from off-beat-stylish to retro-fashionable, all while reinforcing the message of sustainability and setting the right standard for other footwear companies to follow.

设计师

Benjamin Camy

文章来源:yankodesign